North East Coast

August 8th 2022

Marsden Bay to Seaburn 3.2m

Marsden Rock. I could smell it before I got out of the car! Not a particularly offensive smell but I remembered it well as home to one of England's most important seabird colonies with thousands of pairs of kittiwakes, fulmars, gulls and cormorants. Then I heard them. My 'partner in crime' today reminded me of a field trip there many years ago when we worked on a management plan for the grassy area of magnesian limestone. One of many memories almost fully eroded as I must have glided through those days in a Newcastle Brown infused dreamscape.

According to the beachguide.co.uk Marsden beach is a: 

  '........hidden gem located just on the outskirts of South Shields, north-west of Lizard Point.

The golden, sandy beach is backed by tall cliffs and is best known for its breath-taking rock formations, which include a number of sea-stacks and rock arches. Most notable among these is Marsden Rock a 30 metre (100ft) tall sea stack which once featured a stunning arch before it sadly collapsed into the sea .When the tide is out, a number of rockpools are exposed, teeming with interesting marine wildlife. In the cliffs opposite Marsden Rock, one finds Marsden Grotto, one of the only two cave-bars in Europe, which is literally carved out of the rock face.  A number of legends and ghost stories surround the cliffs, caves and the pub itself, all of which were once the haunt of smugglers.Dominating the cliff face here is the lift shaft which takes customers from the cliff top down to Marsden Grotto over 100ft (30m) below.From this beach, the views of the cliffs and the craggy coastline will take your breath away.A seabird sanctuary is close to the beach and this is a good place to see gulls, cormorants, kittiwakes and fulmars.  Look out for seabirds perched on top of Marsden Rock, providing a wonderful photo opportunity.' 

We covered 3.2 miles on this stretch. It seemed very easy compared with the SW coast path and its many ups and downs to gain an inch.  It was a great path and well maintained. Absolutely stunning scenery and wildlife.  The sunshine helped, gave it that continental blue and white colour that took my breath away. We had a look a Souter Lighthouse, the second time I've been there.  It stands strikingly on  the route from Marsden to Seaburn. Souter Lighthouse and The Leas is a SSSI  and protected by the National Trust.    Shame my walking shoes weren't as well protected - a huge chunk of the sole fell out as we left the lighthouse.  I just carried on, as you do.

Finally, arriving at Seaburn we hit Minchella's for fish and chips and ice cream. Possibly the best cod... certainly  on a par with the Almighty Cod or Young's at Seaton Carew. 

We found a great spot overlooking the sea as many people drifted off with their closely guarded fish boxes.  The seagull attack on the next table could have been a scene from  The Birds.  Thankfully, all eyes were kept fully intact but with no Mitch to rescue them, there was a tragic mess on the floor with at least 40 full sized gulls clearing the evidence in the blink of an eye.  What a waste of money, I thought.   I wondered why we hadn't  been attacked. Then I understood... Gemma is from Yorkshire.  They must have known they wouldn't  stand a chance.