Altarnun and Trewint Tor 12.04.26
- Ronnie's Boots
- Apr 13
- 3 min read
Updated: Apr 16
We met in Altarnun (or Alternum, as I confidently misnamed it for at least half the journey), a little village just beyond Launceston, Cornwall, and it felt like driving straight into a postcard of idyllic, rural life. It helped that the sun was shining and bringing out the sparkles of the stream and colourful blooms in the cottage gardens around us.
This place sits right on the edge of Bodmin Moor, tucked into a valley with a stream (Penpont Water), a proper old packhorse bridge, and enough bluebells to make you question your life choices in not moving there immediately.
For the explorer, the location of excellent public toilets was a huge benefit. And the local library in the telephone box gave us a reason to return as we borrowed a book: The Search for Bridey Murphy by Morey Bernstein. Mmm I'll let you know. I've noted it here so I don't forget which one to return.
Even after all that, it's the church that casually steals the show. St Nonna’s Church is widely known as the “Cathedral of the Moor”. Built mostly in the 15th century using the granite from the moor itself. It towers above the village, setting the scene. It was used as the wedding location in Doc Martin, but there no sign of screen tourism! Just a peaceful, well-kept and welcoming place. We were the only ones in the church for some time,in awe of the craftsmanship held particularly in the Tudor bench ends. There are 79 carved bench ends from the early 1500s, each one telling a tiny story: musicians, villagers, saints… a medieval Instagram, but in oak. The first one holds an inscription by the wood carver Robert Daye. I bet he didn't expect his work would still be here hundreds years later. I have added a link to further church information and some far superior photos to mine:
On looking around the church yard there were surprisingly dark inscriptions on the gravestones,reminding the reader to tread carefully as they will meet their death sooner than they think - or words to that effect. There were so many that we couldn't help see the comedy value of them. Others, of course, were heartbreaking.
We ate like kings today as we had both brought a selection of delights; my partner in crime equally fond of trying out new picnic tastes in beautiful places. We found some shelter in the church itself - although sunny today, it was chilly with the wind.
The village also has strong links to John Wesley, who came preaching here in the 18th century and stayed nearby in Trewint (saw this last week with my walk up to the Beacon) There's a Wesley cottage and a carved image of Wesley on the old chapel, created by a teenage sculptor (aged 16 - impressive) who went on to make his fortune - I stumbled on his story in this wonderful blog:
After lunch in the village we began the full Bodmin Moor drama: only a short walk up to Trewint Tor, but the wind politely rearranged everything from hair to personality. The views were worth every gust. Vast, wild, slightly “Wuthering Heights" though less height but definitely wuthering. We found a sheltered spot and drank in the views, snapped away on our cameras and captured some of the bleak beauty of the place including mischief from the newborn lambs.
Returning to the village there was an impressive selection of local produce for sale, eggs and plants mainly.
I wanted to share this wonderful account of Altarnun's history with you as it holds so much more detail about the people it has grown over the centuries, wonderfully appreciated:
Altarnun isn’t just a pretty village —it’s the kind of place that quietly stacks centuries of history, humour, skill, medieval carvings, and then just casually throws in a stream and a bridge for good measure. Honestly, it’s showing off. And I fully support it. If you haven't stumbled upon this place yet, it is a perfect way to spend a quiet afternoon in Spring.
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